Stress Test gave me my best stability score ever, and max temp hovered around 75-76 degrees, which is a 3-degree improvement for much better performance. Thank you so much for taking your time to walk me through this. Then you'll increase mV from 1000 to 1020 and keep doing this till the system is stabilized. ![]() If anything messes up, best you get is just a system restart or artifacts. But I'm comfortable with 1000mV as I see mostly 60 degree C during intense load. These are my settings, you can actually go lower. Click apply, save it to a profile and bubble the "Apply overclocking at system startup." And make sure to start tick the box to start up MSI Afterburner during PC startup. You'll have lower temps and similar performance to default. Your GPU is now have a curve that will adjust itself upward till 1000mV at a frequency of 1915 MHz. If it's at 2500 MHz, adjust it for 2300 and work your way down till you find stability. For example, in my case, I did 1000 mV (bottom graph) and I would drag the square to at least 1915 MHz (because my GPU default is at 2000 MHz.) Your GPU is a 3080TI, so it has a higher frequency, MHz. Depending where you want your Voltage to sit, you'll drag the square to where you want your GPU to try to hit the clock frequency. The curve should drop below your default curve.Ĥ. Adjust the Core Clock (MHz) by NEGATIVE 250 (-250). The Voltage/Frequency curve editor should pop-up.ģ. Press anywhere on the MSI interface and hit CTRL+F Go to settings, User Interface, and change it to Default MSI Afterburner v3 skin - big editionĢ. If it's at 2500 MHz, adjust the curve to reach 2300 MHz or lower at a lower mV.ġ. Since you're on a 3080TI, your frequency will be a lot higher than mines. ![]() The goal is to lower mV while trying to reach for your GPU frequency clock MHz. I never have done that before.īefore you begin, your CURVE is different from mines. Get the heat out of the case and it cannot be reused to try and cool the gpu.I'm just worried I'd screw up the card. In a case with good airflow (that doesn't mean More fans) the heat is expelled as fast as its produced, no cyclic pattern, load temps are what they are.īest case scenario is mesh front, higher set fan curves for both intake and exhaust fans, case next to open window. You basically turn your case into a convection oven. ![]() If the load on the gpu is sufficient to create a larger Delta, added onto the 40° case ambient temp start, you get a cyclic airflow pattern, the case temps rise as more heat is produced than can be expelled. Add in Sata chipsets, USB chipsets, VRM's, gpu, cpu pump, tubing, drives and every other source of radiated heat and the lousy airflow and the interior of your case is approaching or exceeding 40☌. Everything inside the case is starting with a 27° base temp. That's why later designs included a Mesh front, the glass front was starving the case for airflow.Ĩ0☏ is 27☌. That was the biggest complaint of the original H500 cases, that solid front and low sp fans. Picture: 200mm fans are Great for moving air, but suck at making it move, very little static pressure compared to a much smaller fan. Just need to hit the right (wrong) combination of ambient temps, case temps, loads, airflow and bang you got a hot card. ![]() All video cards have the potential to throttle.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |